When it comes to hair coloring and bleaching, achieving the perfect shade can be a daunting task. One common method used by hairstylists and at-home colorists is mixing 20 developer with bleach. However, this process requires careful consideration and attention to detail to avoid damaging your hair or achieving undesirable results. In this article, we will delve into the world of hair coloring and explore the ins and outs of mixing 20 developer with bleach.
Understanding Hair Developers and Bleach
Before we dive into the process of mixing 20 developer with bleach, it’s essential to understand the role of each component in the hair coloring process.
What is a Hair Developer?
A hair developer is a chemical solution that is mixed with hair color or bleach to activate the coloring process. Developers come in different volumes, ranging from 10 to 40, with each volume representing a different level of lift. The volume of the developer determines how much the hair will be lifted, with higher volumes resulting in greater lift.
What is 20 Developer?
20 developer is a medium-strength developer that is commonly used for hair coloring and bleaching. It provides a moderate level of lift, making it suitable for most hair types and coloring applications.
What is Bleach?
Bleach is a strong chemical solution that is used to lighten hair. It works by breaking down the pigment in the hair shaft, resulting in a lighter color. Bleach is often used to achieve platinum or icy blonde shades, but it can also be used to create other light shades.
Mixing 20 Developer with Bleach: The Basics
Now that we understand the role of 20 developer and bleach in the hair coloring process, let’s explore the basics of mixing these two components.
The Ratio of Developer to Bleach
The ratio of developer to bleach is critical when mixing these two components. The standard ratio is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer. However, this ratio can be adjusted depending on the desired level of lift and the condition of the hair.
Why is the Ratio Important?
The ratio of developer to bleach is important because it determines the strength of the mixture. If too much bleach is used, the mixture can be too harsh, resulting in damaged hair. On the other hand, if too much developer is used, the mixture may not be strong enough to achieve the desired level of lift.
Step-by-Step Guide to Mixing 20 Developer with Bleach
Now that we understand the basics of mixing 20 developer with bleach, let’s move on to a step-by-step guide.
Step 1: Prepare the Hair
Before mixing the developer and bleach, it’s essential to prepare the hair. This includes washing the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any product buildup and towel-drying the hair to remove excess moisture.
Step 2: Mix the Developer and Bleach
In a well-ventilated area, mix the 20 developer and bleach in a plastic bowl. Use a tint brush to mix the components, and be sure to wear gloves to protect your skin from the harsh chemicals.
Step 3: Apply the Mixture
Once the mixture is ready, apply it to the hair using a tint brush. Be sure to saturate the hair evenly, but avoid overlapping or applying too much mixture to one area.
Step 4: Process the Mixture
The processing time will depend on the desired level of lift and the condition of the hair. As a general rule, the mixture should be left on the hair for 20-45 minutes.
Step 5: Rinse and Tone
After processing the mixture, rinse the hair thoroughly with warm water. If desired, apply a toner to achieve the desired shade.
Tips and Precautions
When mixing 20 developer with bleach, there are several tips and precautions to keep in mind.
Use a Lower Volume Developer for Damaged Hair
If you’re working with damaged hair, it’s best to use a lower volume developer to avoid further damage. A 10 or 15 volume developer may be a better option for damaged hair.
Perform a Strand Test
Before applying the mixture to the entire head, perform a strand test to ensure the desired results. This will also help you determine the processing time.
Avoid Overlapping or Applying Too Much Mixture
When applying the mixture, avoid overlapping or applying too much mixture to one area. This can result in uneven color and damage to the hair.
Use a Conditioning Treatment After Bleaching
After bleaching, it’s essential to use a conditioning treatment to restore moisture and hydration to the hair. This will help to prevent damage and breakage.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
When mixing 20 developer with bleach, there are several common mistakes to avoid.
Using Too Much Bleach
Using too much bleach can result in damaged hair and uneven color. It’s essential to use the right ratio of developer to bleach to avoid this mistake.
Not Performing a Strand Test
Not performing a strand test can result in undesirable results and damage to the hair. It’s essential to perform a strand test before applying the mixture to the entire head.
Not Using a Conditioning Treatment After Bleaching
Not using a conditioning treatment after bleaching can result in dry, damaged hair. It’s essential to use a conditioning treatment to restore moisture and hydration to the hair.
Conclusion
Mixing 20 developer with bleach can be a complex process, but with the right knowledge and precautions, you can achieve the perfect shade. Remember to use the right ratio of developer to bleach, perform a strand test, and use a conditioning treatment after bleaching. By following these tips and avoiding common mistakes, you can achieve professional-looking results at home.
| Developer Volume | Lift Level |
|---|---|
| 10 | 1-2 levels |
| 15 | 2-3 levels |
| 20 | 3-4 levels |
| 25 | 4-5 levels |
| 30 | 5-6 levels |
| 35 | 6-7 levels |
| 40 | 7-8 levels |
By following the guidelines outlined in this article, you can achieve professional-looking results at home. Remember to always follow the instructions carefully and take the necessary precautions to avoid damaging your hair.
What is the purpose of mixing 20 volume developer with bleach?
Mixing 20 volume developer with bleach is a common practice in hair coloring and lightening. The developer helps to activate the bleach, allowing it to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively and achieve the desired level of lift. This combination is often used to achieve a lighter shade of hair, especially when trying to achieve a drastic color change.
When mixed with bleach, the 20 volume developer helps to break down the pigment in the hair, allowing the bleach to lift the color more efficiently. This can be especially useful when trying to achieve a platinum or icy blonde color, as it helps to remove warm tones and achieve a cooler, more ashy shade.
What are the risks of mixing 20 volume developer with bleach?
Mixing 20 volume developer with bleach can be a bit tricky, and there are some risks involved. One of the main risks is over-processing, which can cause damage to the hair, including dryness, brittleness, and breakage. This is especially true if the mixture is left on the hair for too long or if the hair is already damaged or over-processed.
Another risk is uneven color distribution, which can result in patchy or streaky color. This can be caused by a number of factors, including incorrect mixing, inadequate application, or insufficient processing time. To minimize these risks, it’s essential to follow the instructions carefully and perform a strand test before applying the mixture to the entire head.
How do I mix 20 volume developer with bleach?
To mix 20 volume developer with bleach, start by combining the two ingredients in a well-ventilated area, wearing gloves and protective eyewear. The general ratio is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer, but this can vary depending on the specific product and the desired level of lift. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully and mix the ingredients in a plastic bowl, as metal can react with the bleach.
Once the mixture is combined, apply it to the hair, starting at the roots and working your way down to the ends. Be sure to saturate the hair evenly, but avoid overlapping or applying too much mixture to one area. Process the mixture for the recommended amount of time, keeping an eye on the hair to avoid over-processing.
How long do I leave the mixture on the hair?
The processing time for the mixture will depend on the desired level of lift and the condition of the hair. As a general rule, the mixture should be left on the hair for 20-45 minutes, but this can vary depending on the specific product and the individual’s hair. It’s essential to keep an eye on the hair during the processing time, as over-processing can cause damage and uneven color distribution.
To check the processing time, perform a strand test before applying the mixture to the entire head. This will give you an idea of how long the mixture needs to be left on the hair to achieve the desired level of lift. Be sure to rinse the hair thoroughly after processing, and follow up with a toner or conditioner to help lock in the color and moisture.
Can I use 20 volume developer with bleach on damaged hair?
Using 20 volume developer with bleach on damaged hair can be a bit tricky, as the mixture can further dry out and damage the hair. However, if you’re looking to achieve a drastic color change, it may be necessary to use this combination. To minimize the risk of further damage, be sure to follow the instructions carefully and take steps to protect the hair.
Before applying the mixture, perform a strand test to determine the best course of action. You may also want to consider using a pre-color treatment to help repair and protect the hair. After processing, be sure to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner and a hydrating mask to help lock in moisture and repair the hair.
What are the alternatives to mixing 20 volume developer with bleach?
If you’re looking for alternatives to mixing 20 volume developer with bleach, there are a few options available. One option is to use a lower volume developer, such as 10 volume, which can be less damaging to the hair. You can also consider using a different type of bleach, such as oil-based or cream-based bleach, which can be less harsh on the hair.
Another option is to use a hair lightener, such as a balayage or highlights kit, which can help to achieve a lighter shade of hair without the need for bleach. These kits typically include a developer and a lightener, and can be less damaging to the hair than bleach. Be sure to follow the instructions carefully and perform a strand test before applying the kit to the entire head.
How do I care for my hair after using 20 volume developer with bleach?
After using 20 volume developer with bleach, it’s essential to take good care of your hair to help lock in the color and moisture. Start by using a moisturizing conditioner and a hydrating mask to help repair and hydrate the hair. You can also consider using a color-protecting shampoo and conditioner to help lock in the color and prevent fading.
Be sure to avoid using hot water, which can strip the hair of its color and moisture. Instead, use warm or cool water, and avoid using heat styling tools, which can further dry out and damage the hair. You can also consider using a hair oil or serum to help lock in moisture and protect the hair from damage.